Strategy: Chipotle is testing a new Tex-Mex 'queso' dip it said it would never add to the menu — here's the verdict (CMG)

Despite years of customers begging the burrito chain to add queso to the menu, Chipotle has stubbornly denied their demands — until now.

In this great compromise called democracy, sacrifices must be made.

On Monday, Chipotle did just that: debuting a menu item it said it would never serve.

Despite years of customers begging the burrito chain to add queso to the menu, Chipotle has stubbornly denied their demands for the goopy Tex-Mex dip.

"Queso has to be made with artificial stabilizers to keep its shiny liquid form. Ever heard of all-natural-goopy cheese? Do you think there's a magical cow that squirts queso out of its udders?" Chipotle said in a snarky video explaining the cheesy elixir's absence.

Chipotle's now singing a different tune. Queso is finally being tested at the company's first public test kitchen in New York City, which opened Monday, Eater first reported. Apparently, the company found a way to crack the enigma of the all-natural queso code.

Eager for answers and liquid cheese, we dashed to the nearby test kitchen which also serves other test items, including new salads and margaritas.

The test kitchen, called "Chipotle NEXT Kitchen," is located in Manhattan on the corner of 6th Ave and 13th St.

Wandering in, you'd think it's just a run-of-the-mill Chipotle, complete with the standard fast-casual decor and the lunch time rush.

But there's one thing that you won't find at any other Chipotle in the world: queso.

On first bite, the difference between this all-natural queso and the standard Tex-Mex variety is immediate. While the typical Velveeta-based dip is smooth and elastic in its cheesy richness, this cheddar-based version has a grainy texture more reminiscent of a roux-based sauce.

No Insta-worthy cheese pull here — the queso is viscous and texturally closer to chowder than nacho cheese. However, that's not necessarily an insult. The savory, rich flavors are all present with a slow, pleasant, smokey burn to it.

While the lack of the expected elasticity is disappointing to queso traditionalists, when added to a burrito, these textural flaws are all but forgotten.

The dip becomes something of a cheesy sauce, adding a heavy richness that permeates the burrito and brings out from the meat and beans a more umami-like earthiness. For a chain that has long been weak when it comes to cheese, this is a marked improvement.

While queso the show-stealer here, there are other innovations Chipotle is trying out in the test kitchen.

Margaritas are also on the menu — both a classic version and a strawberry non-alcoholic take. Both are delicious; the classic margarita is not too sweet and not too sour, and the strawberry one is delightfully refreshing on a hot summer's day.

The new avocado vinaigrette dressing is being tested atop a spring greens mix, which is a departure from the usual romaine salad base. It's tasty, with more hints of citrus than avocado.

At the end of the day, the queso is the big draw. If you're expecting the classic cheese pull-worthy dip that is the jewel in the crown of Tex-Mex cuisine, look elsewhere. But if your usual burrito order needs a little something extra, perhaps paying the extra $1.25 is worth the trip.

Despite years of customers begging the burrito chain to add queso to the menu, Chipotle has stubbornly denied their demands — until now. Read Full Story